Anybody interested in gear life should also have a look at German Tourist's, The Big Trip. She has hiked more miles than anybody else I know and her blog is an invaluable resource on gear life as well as much more. I had the pleasure to meet and hike with her on the Arizona Trail and she is certainly an inspirational character.
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Other Gear Life Resources
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MLD Monk Tarp Review
The Mountain Laurel Designs Monk Tarp is about as simple as a shelter can be. In silnylon you get a single 9*5ft flat piece of material or a smaller 4*9ft piece should you chose cuben fibre. Cuben fibre is only available in smaller width rolls hence the foot difference between the tarps. My review is for the silnylon version and that extra foot of space is very useful for some of the configurations I use.
I bought the tarp in 2010 for my Arizona Trail hike as I wanted protection from windblown sand on 3 sides. All my shaped ridge tarps, which are designed for UK conditions, are open at the front and rear and I didn't like the idea of sand bellowing through my shelter. I've used the MLD Monk tarp for a minimum of 100 nights in Arizona and back in the UK, and while it has faded somewhat, it still performs like new.
One of the great things about such a simple shelter is that it will cost you just $80 in silnylon. This is excellent and anybody on a budget looking to do a long thruhike should seriously consider a shelter like this. You don't need to spend $100's extra for a shelter and this would be very suitable for something even as big as a PCT or CDT thruhike. I like simplicity with all my kit and as a single piece of silnylon, with 12 tieouts around the edge, and a further 2 mid panel, it fits in well with my preferences. The edge tieouts are all fitted with linelocs to allow for easy adjustment and while they could be removed to save a little weight, I think they are worth the extra. MLD advertise the Monk as only having 8 edge tieouts, and not 12, so do ask Ron if you would rather have the extra (I would). The 2 centre panel tieouts have elasticated shockcord fitted to help reduce shocks to the fabric. Never over tighten these, there should always be some stretch left in the cord to allow for gusts. All the tieouts are reinforced by a second layer of fabric which, around the edge, are sewn rather than sewn and taped like the centre panel ones are. While I prefer the taped and sewn construction it hasn't been a problem with the Monk tarp.
Quality of construction is excellent. In the past I have sometimes been critical of MLD with wonky stitching and loose tieouts on some of my other gear. Here there was absolutely nothing to complain about. All edges are neatly rolled and sewn and the tieouts have held well to 2 years of use. At any price the quality is excellent. With the tarp comes a simple stuff sack and around 10m of 3mm guyline. Of course being a single piece of material means that there are no seams to seal, which is a bonus! The weight of my Monk with guy lines fitted is 309g, with another 88g for pegs, and 157g for a bivi. Total trail weight is 554g. Not bad at all for the price.
My standard pitch for the desert or stability is the 1/2 pyramid. This gave the protection from the sand I was looking for but is also very wind resistant. This is hardly surprising when what you have is very similar to 1/2 a Duomid or Trailstar, which are both known for their stability. Because it's a flat tarp, and not shaped like those 2, there will always be some slack that can flap in the wind making it a little noisier in strong winds. Earplugs come in handy here! Of course if the wind does a 180 then you would have to repitch, like in most tarps, but moderate wind variations are taken care of by the sides. Pitched like this space is good for a single user. Your head and feet are always near the ends but at 188cm I've never found this much of a problem. The height is right where you need it and there is no problem sitting up.
Versatility is one of the greatest advantages of a flat tarp like the Monk. Here I've actually moulded it around some handy rocks to give protection on all sides. The natural stretch of silnylon is an advantage over cuben fibre when doing creative pitches. I never pitched the Monk as an A-frame because flat tarps just don't work as well as one built with a Catenary (curved) ridge in this configuration. If you want the A-frame to be your main pitch then you would be better looking at one of the more expensive MLD Grace tarps.
The silnylon Monk is meant as a solo shelter but here it's used for two. This would not be possible with the narrower cuben version. The extra tieouts (12 over the standard 8) have allowed an unconventional pitch with both ends sloping down to offer additional side protection. I wouldn't use the Monk for 2 in a wet climate as it is only JUST big enough. For Arizona, outside of rainy season, it was not a problem!
Would I buy another? You bet I would! For $80 this is a bit of a bargain. With not much to go wrong it will also last a long time and value for money cannot be faulted. Using a flat tarp is an art that will not suit everybody. With a tent you throw it up the same way every night, it becomes easy. With a flat tarp you assess your campsite and the conditions before choosing the most appropriate pitch. This is a skill and has to be learnt. My choice would be silnylon over cuben for the extra width and versatility when pitching.
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BBC Interview on Ultralight Hiking and Homemade Gear

Looking at my list most of the major items are homemade with only baselayers, footware and waterproof jacket still branded. Baselayers are on my hit list and I already have plenty of merino patiently waiting. I've made many waterproof jackets over the years but the latest and most breathable materials are not available to the Make Your Own Gear crowd, so for now I'm stuck with the brands. Don't ever see myself having a go at footware!
Wish me luck with the interview!
***UPDATE***
The interview is available on the BBC iPlayer for the next 7 days. I recommend listening to the full program but if you want to just hear my bit then fast forward 1 hr.
***UPDATE***
The interview is available on the BBC iPlayer for the next 7 days. I recommend listening to the full program but if you want to just hear my bit then fast forward 1 hr.
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An update...
After a prolonged period of panic that everything might not come together in time to allow me to do anything outdoors this year, and which possibly might have even interfered with my planned PCT thru-hike next year, and beyond, things and have settled down nicely in Tramplite’s world. My original plan had been to rent the house out while away travelling but for various reasons, including talking to others that have done something similar, it was clear that selling would be the best option. Like many places the UK property market isn’t great and a similar house over the road that has been for sale for over 2 years didn’t do much for my confidence. However, amazingly I had 2 excellent offers in the first week of sale! 4 weeks later everything is either in long-term storage or has been sold and I can now relax... Just got to sit out my final couple of months in the office but on 14th Sept I shall go to work for the last time for a while, perhaps ever…

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Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Z-Poles

There are many types of hiking poles but most are 3 section, height adjustable, and made from aluminium. These can last a lifetime and are relatively cheap but perhaps a little heavy at 4-600g/pr. Some hiking poles have springs to reduce shocks but I see no need for them. Over the last few years lighter poles made from carbon fibre have become more common and these can weigh as little as 200g/pr, but they will not be suitable for all.
Not sure? Take my quick quiz and answer honestly, yes or no.
- Are you normally tough on gear?
- Do you slip, fall or stumble a lot when hiking?
- Have you bent heavier aluminium hiking poles?
- Do you use pole extenders to pitch your shelters?
- Are you overweight, or carrying a particularly heavy load?

Gossamer Gear make some wonderfully light carbon fibre poles, these are available in one-piece (LT3) or a two-piece (LT4) versions. I've used the fixed length one-piece since 2006 (mine are the older LT1 or 2 model) and they are very good and still going strong but being one-piece using public transport or flying is a problem. I've also had the adjustable two-piece since 2009 but have found these to be a little unreliable, they will often jam in the open position and both poles have had the whole bug assembly, that locks the poles at the chosen height, come off from the shafts during hikes. The only other person I know in the UK that has a set has had similar problems so it doesn't appear to be a one off. I want the reliability of a one-piece fixed pole but the packability of a two-piece design, when I found the Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Z-Poles in early 2011 I hoped all my wishes had been granted.
As with all my reviews I paid for these poles myself and they have not been supplied for test. I have used them in the rocky high mountains of Colorado as well as back home in Scotland. I estimate they have covered a minimum of 1500km and they look like they should last a longtime yet. Having used Gossamer Gear poles for a number of years I will make comparisons to them throughout the review.
The Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Z-Poles are a 3-peice folding carbon fibre pole with replaceable carbide tips and adjustable wrist straps. Small fixed baskets and a long ribbed EVA foam handle complete the features. They are supplied with a storage bag and alternative rubber tips which I have not used. Folding poles are quite rare but actually make real sense. Conventional adjustable poles can work loose and collapse when loaded (under your weight!), the rubber locking bungs can also jam or wear out. Folding poles cannot do that and should the mechanism that holds them together fail then taping the joints together would keep you going. The only problem with folding poles is that, like one-piece poles, choosing the right size is critical. One size will not fit all.

The carbon shafts are held locked together by a nylon covered cord, the cord is tensioned by sliding the foam handle up the carbon shaft until a pin locks into a hole with a reassuring click. They are very quick to assemble, pick up the pole by the handle and let gravity pull it straight, grip the shaft below the handle and pull the foam covered handle upwards with the other hand until you feel the pin lock into the shaft. To fold simply push the pin and slide the handle down the shaft, you can then fold the pole into its 3 sections. Very quick, easy and so far, reliable.

The tension of the cord is adjustable to allow for any stretch, this is altered by rotating a plastic in-line adjuster between the lower and middle sections. My poles both arrived slack and it was possible to pull the pole joints pulled apart a few mm, continuous movement of the joints will lead to wear over time so check yours are adjusted correctly from new. My poles are 130cm but they are available in lengths from 100-130cm in 10cm increments. Wrist straps are included but were quickly removed as I don't like, or need, straps with such light poles. However, they looked comfortable and as good as any other but straps are just not for me. My poles, with straps removed, weigh-in at 260g. This is 73g more then my one-piece Gossamer Gear (LT1 or 2) poles and 60g more than my 2-piece LT4's. The extra weight is noticeable on the trail but still much lighter than most other poles. The packed size is a tiny 43cm.
One of the best features of the Z-Poles is the long ribbed handle which allows for multiple hand positions and can be very useful when transversing a steep slope. With adjustable poles you could lengthen the downhill pole and shorten the uphill, which obviously you can't with a fixed or folding pole, but do you ever actually stop to adjust your poles? I never could be bothered! Compared to the smaller LT4 handles the Z-Poles are more useful but I do prefer the EVA foam "kork-o-lon" material that Gossamer Gear use finding it more comfortable with hot sweaty hands. The kork also appears to wear better, my Z-Pole handles are looking a bit battered but my Gossamer Gear still look like new. I should also note the the LT4 handles are replaceable which is not an option with the Z-Poles. The Z-Poles carbide tips show little wear but are user replaceable and simply screw on the end of the shafts which is an excellent feature. They cannot come loose because of interlocking plastic teeth, all poles should have this feature but most, including my Gossamer Gear, do not.
Stiffness of the Z-Poles is impressive for such a light pole and the joints, once the tension is adjusted, are solid and with no play. When assembled they feel like a one-piece pole but with the advantage of folding when needed. This stiffness and strength is great when used as shelter supports but these poles won't work with all shelters, the Trailstar for example needs an adjustable pole that covers 100-120cm and my Z-Poles at 130cm are just too tall. They do work well with conventional tarps but tall shelters like the DuoMid are also a problem. I wouldn't recommend using pole extenders with ANY of these lightweight poles, the increased stresses in a storm on an extended lightweight pole could prove to be too much. There is a simple way round this that will be my next post.
There are a couple of things I don't like about the Z-Poles. The baskets are tiny, and fixed, so cannot be swapped. The whole plastic end (including baskets) are available as a spare so could be replaced when worn but how easy it would be to replace a bonded part I don't know. On firm ground these small baskets are fine but if crossing a bog, or even worse, a snowfield then the shafts will sink deep and a shaft that sinks deep is much more likely to snap if you don't react quickly. This is one reason I don't like wrist straps, if I feel any resistance then I can release my grip immediately and save the pole, but if I'm attached to the pole and moving at speed when it jams then.... In defence of the Z-Poles they are marketed as a 3 season pole but Scotland has deep bogs year-round and Colorado has snowfields.
The poles are showing some wear to the EVA foam handles and this foam has also slipped down the shaft over time and covered the release pins. Sand and grit can get under the handle making it harder to fold or assemble the poles. This grit is also very abrasive on the carbon shafts but washing the poles regularly helps (a dunk in a stream is sufficient).
Disappointingly the stainless(?) steel locking pins have corroded which again makes it harder to fold the poles. Should the tensioned cord that holds everything together fail then I doubt it could be replaced by the user on a hike.
Overall I really like these poles. They are stiff, and for the weight, very tough. Reliability has so far been excellent and should the worst happen on the trail, and something failed, then I'm confident they could be made useable with some tape. They pack quickly and really small and fit inside most packs for transportation. The carbide tips are easily replaced but unfortunately not the baskets. Perhaps they are a bit heavy when compared to the Gossamer Gear poles and the fixed length LT's are still my first choice if I don't need a folding pole. For everything else though these are my poles of choice and come highly recommended.
UPDATE NOV 2012
The poles have now covered 3000km and are holding up very well. The foam handle on one pole has come unstuck and can be removed with some force. I'm not going to stick it back on as it grips well enough in use and now allows full access to the cord mechanism should that ever fail. Corrosion of the locking pins continues and I feel that when these poles finally fail it could well be these pins that give way first. I always dry the poles before storage but on the trail they are just left to get on with it and I really wouldn't expect to find corrosion like this on a quality product. Its bad enough now that I often need to use a rock, or other object, to operate the pins to allow folding. The baskets continue to annoy me beyond belief being so small to be useless for my normal hiking conditions. It's easy to force them through any ground level undergrowth when you put any weight on them but they then require a good tug to be released - after a while this gets really annoying! More challenging conditions like snow, mud, bogs and they just sink... I HATE the baskets! Other than that I'm still very happy with the poles and I expect to get many more km out of them yet.
UPDATE NOV 2012
The poles have now covered 3000km and are holding up very well. The foam handle on one pole has come unstuck and can be removed with some force. I'm not going to stick it back on as it grips well enough in use and now allows full access to the cord mechanism should that ever fail. Corrosion of the locking pins continues and I feel that when these poles finally fail it could well be these pins that give way first. I always dry the poles before storage but on the trail they are just left to get on with it and I really wouldn't expect to find corrosion like this on a quality product. Its bad enough now that I often need to use a rock, or other object, to operate the pins to allow folding. The baskets continue to annoy me beyond belief being so small to be useless for my normal hiking conditions. It's easy to force them through any ground level undergrowth when you put any weight on them but they then require a good tug to be released - after a while this gets really annoying! More challenging conditions like snow, mud, bogs and they just sink... I HATE the baskets! Other than that I'm still very happy with the poles and I expect to get many more km out of them yet.
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Lightweight shelter supports
It's becoming increasingly common for the lightest shelters to use trekking poles for support - and why not? Why should you bother carrying extra poles, that take up space and add weight to the pack, when you are already carrying something suitable? Perhaps, there is a very good reason to carry dedicated poles. Some of the lightest poles, particularly those around 200g/pr, might not be suitable for all shelters. The load on a shelter in a storm can be high and not all lightweight trekking poles are not designed for this. Just how much pressure is on the poles? Next time you are out camping in a 30kph wind let down the support pole and try holding the shelter yourself, you will be surprised at the force in even this modest wind. Now, lets up it to 60kph...
I've not owned a shelter which used dedicated poles since 2006 and this was also the time when I got my first really light trekking poles, the fixed length Gossamer Gear TL's. In 2009 they were joined by the adjustable LT4's and in 2011 by the Black Diamond Z-Poles. All these poles have been used year-round for shelter supports, and in all weathers, and so far I've not had one break. I like to think that has not just been luck but because I have thought about, and overcome, the limitations of light trekking poles.
Lets think about what's happening to these poles while keeping it very simple and maths free! Lightweight poles, when loaded, will generally flex more than a heavier set. That's hardly surprising, less material can mean less strength and resistance to bending. Material selection and diameter is also important here but is way beyond the level of this post! In general trekking pole terms, lighter, normally means weaker and with more flex. Flex is a problem with shelter supports, as the load increases the more your centre pole bends and the more likely it is to snap. Flexing can be increased not only by the load exerted on it but also its angle to the load, confusing? Not really, in layman's terms keep it vertical! Flexing of a material increases with its length. Take an adjustable pole and set it to its maximum height and try to bend the pole, then try the same thing with the pole set to 75% and then 50% of its height. Again, not surprisingly, the poles resistance to bending increases as its length is reduced. All very simple and obvious! The important points to take from this is that in a storm you want the pole vertical, and as short, and therefore, stiff as possible.
Lets look at some different shelter types
A conventional tarp works well with even the lightest trekking poles. You have total freedom over the pitch height and as the wind increases you can lower the attachment point on the pole. As we know, lower height increases stiffness and resistance to bending.
But what happens if you don't want reduced height? After all, reduced height normally = less comfort. No problem, if you can't reduce the height then increase the stiffness. That's possible by using both poles upfront to share the load. You will have to find a method of supporting the rear and I sometimes carry a very light tarp pole if I'm expecting to use this method. You could find a suitable stick but even a hiking shoe standing on its end has been used before. As a last resort the rear could be pegged directly to the ground.
The MLD Trailstar is a shaped tarp and my favourite bad weather shelter. For its weight I know of no other shelter that resists wind as well. One of the key features that makes it so resistant is its variable pitching height, I pitch at either 100cm or 120cm depending on the conditions. A fixed length pole doesn't work well with the Trailstar so I use my adjustable Gossamer Gear LT4's. With the centre pole set to 100cm I've never experienced any flexing but at 120cm some flexing occurs in high winds. Want a higher Trailstar pitch in a storm? I've not tried this but doubling up would work, but again, you would have to find something to support the door if you are a solo hiker. Couples with extra hiking poles will not have a problem here.
The MLD Cricket is an excellent fair weather shaped tarp but has a fixed pitch height. My 130cm Z-Poles are just long enough but can flex at that height in a storm. They need to be doubled up when it gets nasty. Luckily it's possible to pitch the Cricket without using a front pole if you pull the front corners out as far as possible. This lowers the porch and is only possible with the silnylon version, the cuben version is less adapable and needs a front support.
The MLD Duomid is more of a problem and not ideal for pitching with the lightest trekking poles. It's a high shelter and I don't have any poles long enough without some sort of extension. MLD know this and supply a handy pole extender - just use that right? NO! Extending a lightweight hiking pole this way is asking for breakage! Extra length increases flexing as we know, but also the supplied extender does not fit lightweight pole tips snugly and will cause it to sit at an angle when loaded, thus further increasing the stresses on the pole. You might get away with this in fine weather but DO NOT USE A POLE EXTENDER WITH ANY LIGHTWEIGHT TREKKING POLE IN A STORM. You could try the doubling-up method, as used with the Cricket, if you have some exceptionally long poles but for the rest of us we need to use a different method. My method is a compromise and if you are intending to use a Duomid in really stormy weather then more substantial poles ARE recommended. However, this method has been successful in some very nasty weather without problems.
This is how I pitch my Duomid. It's light, simple and strong. It is a bit fiddly and adds a couple of minutes to the overall pitching time, only you can decide if you can be bothered with this. The idea is to double-up the poles for as much of their length as possible only leaving the short ends single thickness. My method uses a linloc mid-cord to adjust the overall length of the pole, not only does this guarantee a tight initial pitch but as silnylon stretches and slackens overnight it's easy to re-tension the shelter from inside.
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Coast and Moor no more... probably!
As announced on twitter earlier this week I shall be heading over to Tasmania for a couple of months to explore an island that has always fascinated me. Tasmania is the smallest of Australia's states but arguably the best for outdoor folk with 25% of the Island set aside as National Park and 20% designated World Heritage status. I shall post about my intensions for Tasmania at a later date but this trip unfortunately does affect my Coast and Moor hike which will now have to be renamed just Coast!
Flights to Tasmania are expensive and with peak holiday season being mid/late December through to late January I was forced into booking a cheaper, but still £1155, earlier flight than intended. That means the Moor part of my hike, across Exmoor and Dartmoor, has been dropped and I shall now only hike the South West Coast Path starting end of September. There is just a SMALL chance that if I make good time on the coastal path that I MAY continue and finish as originally planned but I would rather take my time and enjoy what is an excellent coast hike without rushing. Either way, I want to finish by the end of October.
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A new chapter begins
Today, after nearly 23 years, I loaded up my bike with my final few possessions, jumped on and cycled out the gates where I have worked, and for a large part lived, for the very last time. Having dedicated some of the best years of my life to this firm I was half expecting there to be at least a little fuss. How many others have given up a well paid job to live on a shoe string and hike/cycle/paddle full-time around the world? Not many will walk across USA, not once, but twice. I doubt many will paddle the Yukon from source to sea or cycle around Tasmania. And this is all just for starters. So what was I expecting? Some small gift? A card? A speech thanking me for years of loyal service and dedication? My colleagues lined up cheering and clapping? A reporter from the local paper perhaps? I've seen all this for others over the years. The reality was of course somewhat different and actually there was nothing, zilch. I should be disappointed but actually that's exactly the way I wanted it to be... It could not have gone better... I've never told my colleagues of my plans unless they actually asked and even then I have been very cagey with the facts. The average person, be that colleague, friend or family really doesn't understand what I'm doing and why. It's just not normal. I've never enjoyed trying to explain why I have chosen to take this path and I really don't like talking about myself so I keep it to myself and a small group of friends. Any fuss today would have been my worst nightmare.
So, finally, I have the chance to follow my dreams and live that simpler, richer life, that I crave. My goal now is to do whatever and go wherever my passion takes me. In the short term that means a quick weeks cycle tour of Scotland before Phil Turners wedding on the 21st. This will be an early warmup for a tour of Tasmania from December and in-between of course I have the Coastal hike. Not a bad end to the year! Next year will be the first of the 2 hikes across the USA. It just gets better!
The blog will be quiet now until November while I'm away cycling and hiking but if you wish to follow my Coast and Moor hike on Social Hiking then it can be found here.
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Scottish cycle tour finished!
Yesterday I arrived in Perth after finishing my short tour by bike down the spine of Scotland. I've uploaded some photos to my Social Hiking page. Weather was overall very wet and windy but I still had a great time. Dropped the bike off and picked up my hiking gear for the Coast & Moor (probably minus the moor!) hike starting Tuesday. Between then I have Phil Turners wedding to attend and a quick stopover in North Yorkshire.
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Coast & Moor completed!
Been home now for a week after successfully completing the Coast & Moor hike. I've been slow putting anything up on the blog as all my stuff is still in storage but that will change tomorrow when I finally recover my toys. I shall post a summary of the hike shortly but I made good time and was able to complete all the hike as originally planned. In just over 3 weeks it's off to Tasmania and hopefully some better weather!
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The end for ultralight hiking?
While I was away it seems that ultralight hiking took a bit of a bashing from some bloggers, Martin Rye, Andrew Skurka, Dave Chenault, among others and to various degrees. At the time I was out on my Coast and Moor hike so didn't get involved because, as we all agree, actually hiking is far more important than just talking about it! Since returning I've had time to read it properly and some good points have been raised, some I agree with... others, not so much. I've been an ultralight hiker since 2000 but its not something you will find mentioned much in this blog. It's just a label and not really relevant in the real world. Hendrik of hikinginFinland.com fame asked me, and a few others, to contribute towards an article he was compiling in favour of ultralight hiking for his blog. I was happy to do so. I recommend you read the full article but I think my thoughts on the subject are important enough to be published alone here.
From the day we are born we are set targets. A baby, if not of a certain weight, is classed as at-risk and nurtured until it reaches its target weight. Throughout school, and beyond, we are set targets through tests and exams. Athletes aspire to reach a certain target and when they do that target is moved that bit further away. As an engineer I'm often given a specification, or target, for my designs. Targets are what drives us to innovate, learn and progress. Without targets laziness and stagnation takes hold. Ultralight hiking is no different and if we don't set ourself goals, or targets, then little progress will be made. Even worse it's all too easy to take small backward steps that, over time, become giant leaps.
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Coast & Moor Summary
This is the first of the new style trip reports that I shall be doing from now on. Trip reports take forever to do thoroughly, which is fine if you are only doing a couple each year, but now I don't have the time, or will, to spend weeks putting in-depth reports together! Reports will be an overview of the hike with any other relevant information added that I can remember.
Coast and moor is not a recognised route, you will not find any trail markers or guidebooks named as such. It is my own hike that comprises of England's longest National Trail, the 1000km South West Coast Path, and my own 300km route across Exmoor and Dartmoor National Parks. I chose this hike because I wanted something that needed little planning during my transitional year and that, if needed elsewhere, I could end without feeling too bad about it. A National Trail was ideal for my needs with maps, routes and guidebooks readily available. Accommodation and resupply were also never going to be an issue in such an inhabited and popular area. The moor section was added because I had plenty of time and little experience of Exmoor, and none for Dartmoor. This seemed like the ideal time to change that.
The South West Coastal Path is a National Trail and that means it's waymarked and has a good maintained path from start to finish. I started my hike from Poole and hiked the coast path the opposite way to the norm. This caused a few navigational headaches as, in some areas, signs only indicated the conventional Minehead to Poole route. Of course coastal navigation is rarely challenging and if I just kept the sea on my left then how could I possibly go wrong? Towns were the biggest problem, along with military ranges, followed by private land. England still has poor public access to the coast and hills. Some of it is privately owned and with no public access, some you have a legal right of access on a public footpath, some has access by agreement with the landowner and some of it can be accessed only on certain days. This creates a bit of a problem on a long continuous hike! Often because of these access issues it meant leaving the coast and heading inland for a number of miles, sometimes on busy roads.
The biggest problem I had was with Lulworth military tank range which was closed to walkers when I arrived. Neither the guidebook or local information boards gave any indication of alternative routes, and while there was a phone number to call for information, there wasn't any phone reception or pay phone to use! What complicated things even further was that some, or all, of the range could be closed but it wasn't clear to me what parts were closed that day. If the range is fully closed then you have a 25km road walk ahead of you, or you could take a bus (not an option I would take). I took a chance that the road that runs through the centre of the range was open, which cut the road walking down to a more tolerable 14km to cover an 11km coastal section. Fortunately it was open, but involved walking along a very busy, and narrow, road without any pavement. On more than one occasion I had to dive into the undergrowth or risk certain death by arrogant and carless drivers. I didn’t take any paper maps for the coast section but had OS 1:50000 maps from Viewranger running on my phone. For the coastal section this was fine but you will need paper backup maps and compass for the moors route which can be tricky to navigate if the weather is bad.
Scenery on the coastal path is world-class and absolutely stunning for most of its 1000km length. I've not seen better coast anywhere in the world but this is not wilderness by any stretch of imagination. As long as I kept looking left all was good but if I looked forward, or right, then I was more likely to see a barbed wire fence or a cows arse than anything resembling wilderness!
There were many sections where clearance between the path and a barbed wire fence, which separates a stunning coastline from bland farmland, is only centimetres. God help you if you slip! Generally though you have a 1-2m corridor to hike down, which is ample. Just keep looking left! I think some of the trail clearance crew might be a little "vertically challenged". There are many fully enclosed tunnels cut through the tall undergrowth, but at 188cm I would have to be almost on my hands and knees to pass through them. Overall though the trail is kept in excellent condition except where the cows have churned it all up.
The best, and most wild, areas are managed by the National Trust who are doing an excellent job of protecting them. Here, just occasionally, you could get the feeling of wilderness, but only very briefly, and if you wore earplugs to drown out the sound of tractors or farm animals! If you are looking for a wilderness hike then you will be disappointed with the South West Coastal Path.
At times the path can be very busy but you will not meet many, or any, thruhikers on the coastal path. I never met any going the full distance! The only other hikers I met that were camping were a lovely young German couple who were talking a year-out to hike around Europe. They were only doing a few hundred kilometres of the trail before moving over to France, and better weather, for the winter. Everybody else on the coastal path was either dog walkers, day hikers or section hikers. Section hiking using B&B’s over many years is the way most seem to do the path. As you might expect on a busy trail, while it has a good path for most of its length, it gets churned up quickly and is very boggy after heavy rain. I was often sinking up to my ankles in a mixture of mud and cow poo!
Accommodation options are numerous. Wild camping is illegal in England and you are expected to use commercial campsites, B&B’s or ask the land owners permission before camping. Commercial sites around the bigger towns will not take hikers that don’t pre-book. Even the ones that will sometimes only take couples! And, expect to pay up to £25 for a pitch on the larger sites! As a solo hiker your options with commercial sites are more limited. Outside of the towns the smaller commercial campsites are more accepting. B&B’s are a good option and often not much more expensive than some campsites, and they include breakfast in the price. Expect to pay £25-75 depending on the area and time of year. I took a chance and wild camped most nights and had no problems. I pitched at dusk and was gone by first light which was easy given the time of year I was hiking. In summer that would mean some very long hiking days. The only other people I met who tried to wild camp had a run-in with the landowner and were give 10 minutes to pack up and leave, or else! I never asked permission to camp which just isn’t a practical option. Finding suitable pitches was never a problem. Only once did I camp in a field, the rest of the time I was able to find good spots on the "wild" side of the fence.
The hike is blessed, or cursed, with temptations. Café’s, takeaways, ice-cream parlours, restaurants are everywhere! Even in October when a lot of the smaller beach café’s had closed for the season I was still able to have at least one good meal/day, but often two, and normally one or more cake and ice-cream stops. My stove was barely used, which would explain how one 100g gas cartridge lasted the entire 1000km coastal section! The problem is that everything is VERY expensive on the coast. £1.20 for a 500ml bottle of water that was £0.39 in the supermarket. Fish & chips from the takeaways could be up to £8. Sit down often more. If you want to do this hike on the cheap then its certainly possible by wild camping and using the supermarkets but you had better have stronger willpower than me!
Early on you have to decide it using ferries (£4-5) or busses to cross/go around estuaries is acceptable to you. Bear in mind that some of the estuaries can take a full day or more to walk around, and quite likely that will be a road walk. I decided that ferries were acceptable, and in-keeping, with a coastal hike but that busses were not.
As it was late in the season not all the ferries were still operating, so I had 3 longish walks around estuaries, and 2 that could/needed wading . Both wades are mentioned in the guidebook and are less than knee deep at low tide. I carried a tide predicting app on my phone to help with judging when to arrive at the crossings and found it really useful, not only with the wades, but also with some of the ferries that only operate an hour or 2 either side of high tide.
From Minehead my route passes though Exmoor on the Two Moors Way. Once on the Two Moors Way you follow it all the way down to Dartmoor before leaving it for a more interesting, and challenging, route. Unfortunately I saw little of Exmoor because of fog and heavy rain.
Next came the only really dull section of the hike. This was the Two Moors Way between Exmoor and Dartmoor. I can't think of anything good to say about it! Dull, dull, dull... farmland, mud and cow poo! Luckily the weather and scenery picked up for Dartmoor. The route finishes in Ivybridge which has a train station, acceptable hotel and many shops/places to eat.
The hike took 34 days, with 1 day off, hiking around 40km/day. I found 40km/day just possible given the limited daylight hours. In summer I would have expected to have covered a little more. The route is challenging with many ups and downs (33000m apx) but they are all quite short. If you are used to mountains then there is not much to worry about here.
The route with photo's can be found on Social Hiking
The route with photo's can be found on Social Hiking
High quality photo's can be found on flickr
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MLD Duomid Buckle Failure
The Mountain Laurel Designs Duomid is a popular pyramid style shelter that has slowly eased its way into my kit selection over the last few months. Space is excellent, stability is good, and it’s very quick to pitch. None of that was the reason I’ve been using it so much though. I chose the Duomid for both my Scottish Cycle Tour and Coast & Moor hike because it is the only shelter I own that has a front door! Doors can be useful if you are expecting to be using commercial campsites. Leaving an open shelter in such a busy public place is perhaps asking for trouble, if only from dogs! Privacy could also be a concern but wasn’t high up on my list. As it happens, I didn’t use any commercial campsites on either of those trips and the failure of the Duomid, on a particularly stormy night, has made me rethink that logic on shelter selection.
The weak spot of the Duomid design has always been the opening and its zip. The whole front of the Duomid can be opened up allowing for magnificent views and excellent ventilation. However, this front is also structurally important to the design of the shelter and its stability in a storm. The base of the Duomid is a rectangle with adjustable pegging points in each corner. To pitch, the base is pegged out, tensioned, pole inserted and adjusted, guys added and pegged, job done! The problem is to keep everything taut in a storm the base pegging points need to be tight which puts enormous pressure through the base seam of the shelter. The back and sides are ok with this as they are solid structures but the front is not. MLD have taken this into account with the design and added a buckle over the door zip which, when done up, effectively makes the front a solid structure and protects that vulnerable zip. Further load is taken off the zip by a Velcro band (or press-studs) half-way up the shelter. In practice this system worked very well, until…
A common theme of my Coast & Moor hike was unseasonably bad weather. Heavy rain and strong winds were the norm instead of the warm, sunny and calm autumn days I had expected. During one bad storm at around 01:00 the front of the Duomid exploded letting 50mph* gusting windblown rain rush into the shelter. The buckle had failed and the zip, unable to take the pressure, had ripped apart. Jumping out of my rapidly wetting down bag and into the night storm I tried to fix the problem by redoing the buckle, but it wouldn’t hold. As soon as I clicked it back together it came apart again. Thinking quickly, my solution was to remove the door guy line and bind the front buckle together using the cord. This worked well and lasted the remaining 3 weeks of the hike. Luckily, the zip appeared to have survived ok and I went back to bed and had a peaceful remainder to the night.
After investigating further I found that the prongs that should lock the buckle together had rounded and could no longer grip the buckle securely. The buckle is a fairly lightweight choice for such a vital job and given my experience could do to be a bit beefier. I shall replace mine with the same ones I use for hipbelts on my rucksacks. This will add a “massive” 1g to the total shelter weight and I doubt it will ever wear out!
So, how long did the Duomid last before failing? A pathetic 35 (mostly windy) nights! I think you will agree that is a poor performance from a shelter of such calibre, and from such an outstanding kit producer. I hope MLD will take the 1g hit and add a more substantial buckle on their Duomids (and Solomid?) in the future.
This experience reminded me why I like simple shelters without zips, buckles or Velcro parts to fail. MLD’s Trailstar or Cricket silnylon (not cuben) models can be pitched with the front almost to the ground and one or the other will be on my next trip to Tasmania.
* Although the forecast predicted 49mph gusts there was some natural shelter and the real windspeed was somewhat less. The Duomid is not the shelter to choose if you are expecting weather of that magnitude. A Trailstar is a better choice.
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Montane Spectr eVent Smock Failure
When you buy the lightest kit you have to realise there is often going to be some disadvantages regarding durability over heavier kit. This is particularly so with waterproofs and these garments should only be worn when it is actually raining. For the rest of the time a cheaper, and more breathable, windproof shirt is more appropriate. That’s exactly how the Montane Spectr Smock was used so it is disappointing that it only lasted 40 days, of which it was probably worn for no more than 20, and then only when it was actually raining.
I bought this smock in Sept 11 and it sat in my gear cupboard for 12 months until I used it on my Scottish Cycling Tour and Coast & Moor hike. The Spectr smock uses a unique rollover closure system, like you find on a drybag, and as I dislike zips any piece of gear that does away with that weak spot gets my vote. Secondly this also happens to be the lightest eVent smock available and was on sale at £120 (£220rrp). I couldn’t resist!
Lets start with the obvious fault, it leaks! The rollover closure system is fiddly but actually works well, except that it forms a gutter inside the smock for rain to flow into... This gutter area is supposed to be well sealed with heat tape but on my smock this has come loose leaving water free to flow into the smock.
Pack wear to the shoulders, but particularly the back and waist, is extreme for such little use. Even worse, the eVent membrane and shell material has delaminated in various places leaving 2 separate fabrics. None of these problems is causing any noticeable leakage yet… but it’s just a matter of time!
Finally, two small holes have worn in the elasticated tunnel cover around the waist. Again no noticeable leakage has been caused.
At full price of £220 I would be appalled if my waterproof wasn’t going to last more than 20 days. Even at a more respectable £120 it’s still a shockingly bad performance for the Montane Spectre eVent smock.
Be the way my homemade Pertex Quantum windshirt (58g), that was worn everyday under the pack and cost around £10 to make, shows no wear to the fabric making the Spectr’s performance even more embarrassing.
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Z-Packs 20 Deg Down Sleeping Bag/Quilt Review
Note - I am a colder sleeper. This means that I need a bag rated at a cooler temperature than some to keep warm at any given temperature. I know from many miserable, cold nights that I need to add 6 Celsius to an otherwise accurately rated bag. To be clear - If I want a bag to keep me warm at 0 Celsius then I need to be looking at bags rated around -6 Celsius. Bare that in mind when reading the review and particularly anything to do with temperature ratings. Unfortunately finding out if you are a cold or warm sleeper can be an expensive and sometimes cold experience! Quilts generally don’t have hoods and you will need additional head protection at cooler temperatures. I usually wear a light down hat when it's below 10 Celsius. When comparing quilts to hooded bags take that additional weight into consideration.
Commercial quilts have never really worked for me. My first experience was with a Nunatak Arc Ghost and while this is a fine example, as a side sleeper, I didn’t find it wide enough which made it a cold and draughty experience for me. I soon sold it on. Undeterred I started making my own and converted one of my PHD “design your own” bags into a wearable, hooded quilt. As this was a bag in its pervious life the width was far greater than is normal for commercial quilts. I found it worked so well that I converted my other 2 PHD bags into wearable quilts also. I was sold on the principle.
In Oct 11 I noticed that Z-Packs had released their own range of sleeping bags that were incredibly light for the quoted ratings. How could these bags be so much lighter than the competition? The weight of a bag for a given temperature rating can only change due to the materials, filling, design or size. All bags using similar materials and fillings, and of equivalent size, should weigh about the same. How then could these bags be so light? Was the temperature rating exaggerated? Perhaps they were extra small? No, the quoted fill and loft from the website looked accurate. Length was as you would expect. Width was excellent and material specification first-rate. How then was Z-Packs able to produce a bag so light for that given temperature rating? The only option remaining was the design. Intrigued I investigated further.
A standard bag from Z-Packs comes with a very light 0.7oz TenD nylon inner but a heavier 0.95oz Pertex Quantum nylon shell. 0.34oz cuben fibre baffles and 850fp down (since upgraded to 900fp US standard, which has less loft than the equivalent European rating) complete the specification. A unique feature is its 3/4 length centre zip that you lay on. This allows you to close up and use as a bag when it's cold but open up like a quilt when warmer, best of both worlds perhaps? This sounded like a good idea but I hate zips! Zips are troublesome, unreliable devices that jam, snag and eventually fail. I keep away from zips whenever possible. At that time a zipless bag, or quilt, wasn’t an option (it is now) and I wanted the bag to be as light as possible so I asked Joe if it would be possible to get a 20deg (-7 Celsius), long length, regular width, zipless bag with a 0.7oz TenD Shell instead of the Quantum. No problem he said! Cost was a reasonable $340 + $20 for those modifications + $29 shipping giving a total of $389 in 2011.
The bag arrived a couple of weeks later in a very nice black Cuben Fibre stuff sack, just in time for winter. As this was bought as a 0 Celsius 3 season thruhiking bag (read note at top) it only got used a couple of times before being put away until warmer weather. Those cool early tests did allow me to confirm that the temperature ratings specified on the website were accurate, which was pleasing, but it also showed up the one major flaw with this bag (read on). Weight of the bag was an impressive 480g and 20g for the stuff sack (not used). Total weight 500g compared to an advertised weight of 513g.
Quality is excellent. Materials and construction are first rate. I’m picky here and I wasn’t able to find fault with the stitching or materials and after 60 nights of use on both my Scottish Cycling Tour and Coast & Moor hikes, along with some shorter trips, no manufacturing or material problems have shown up. Filling is harder to judge, loft is excellent but down leakage is about average. Many days there will be a feather or 2 sticking out of the fabric. I grab these from the opposite side and pull them bag into the bag; I don’t want to loose any precious down! The very light shell fabrics, or the quality of the down could be the cause of this leakage. My PHD bags almost never leak down even in the lightest MX fabrics, but previous bags from Nunatak and RAB leaked more down than the Z-Packs. Overall I would say the down is good but not as good as the exceptional PHD’s 900fp European down. Z-Packs are now using 900fp down which may or may not be of higher quality. One of the ways weight has been saved is by using Cuben Fibre for the baffles. I was slightly concerned how this would hold up long-term after repeated stuffing and un-stuffing into sacks, and also if it would attract condensation within the bag. So far there has been nothing to worry about, the baffles have held up fine and there has been no noticeable lofting problems caused by damp down. I do wonder how much weight is actually saved by this choice of material though. The light TenD shell and inner fabric isn’t showing any signs of wear and appears to be very breathable and resistant to minor water spills. I dislike waterproof shells on my bags, in my experience they resist lofting and the reduced breathability causes more dampness problems than it ever solves. I want the lightest, most breathable, shells available and the TenD fabric is certainly up there with the very best.
At 1.88cm and 69 kg I’m tall and skinny so went for a long length, regular width bag. As a side sleeper I have found the width to be excellent and it’s possible to get a draft free seal all the way around the quilt without much bother. This is the advantage of a quilt that’s been designed as a bag; they are just so much wider than normal! Length is just acceptable for me but ideally I would want another 3-5cm. The website recommends a long bag for individuals up to 6”2, or 185cm, well I’m 6”2 but 188cm! Those 3cm make a difference. If you are 188cm or taller then I would see about getting an even longer version.
Additional features are limited but it has an elasticated drawcord around the neck to keep out drafts. This uses Velcro to secure the two ends of the quilt together and I haven’t found it to work very well. Any movement would easily cause the 2 ends to pull apart so I added a mitten hook to the upper loops, which has been much more successful. Additional loops are fitted all the way down the quilt so it’s possible to link them all together and seal the quilt up very much like a bag if you should wish. I’ve not done this and no clips or cord are supplied.
So we know that the Z-Packs bags use high quality materials, sizing is overall very good and that the temperature rating is accurate. How then do they get it so light and what was the flaw that I mentioned earlier?
Z-Packs have saved weight by effectively removing the standard foot-box found on a conventional bag. It is tiny! If you are a back sleeper then I think this bag will not work for you as there is nowhere to put your feet without completely crushing the upper loft, and that will guarantee you cold feet.
As a side or front sleeper that isn’t so much a problem and I found that my feet naturally angled down into the bag without crushing the down much. Back sleepers beware! Also, and this is the flaw with this bag, there is an un-baffled, read - stitched through, seam running right across the lower foot-box of the bag. This really affects the warmth of the foot area when pushed near to its rated limit. On those early winter tests I had cold feet when the rest on me was still toasty warm. Before you write the Z-Packs bag off there is a solution and it is certainly possible to live with this flaw. Stuffing an item of spare clothing into the foot-box, or wearing some insulated socks if you are going to be pushing the bag works well. For me, I’m happy down to around 5 Celsius without any additional insulation but if I want to get the full 0 Celsius out of it then I need to push my down jacket into the foot-box.
In summary this is a high quality, premium material bag, that can be converted into an excellent quilt for side sleepers if wanted. The ratings are accurate but because of the design additional protection might be needed for your feet. Price is also good considering what you are getting. The weight is incredible for the rating but that comes at a price with that tiny foot-box. For my use, as a 3-season thruhiking bag that will normally be used in above freezing temperatures, then this is a compromise I’m willing to accept.
*UPDATE FEB 2013*
Joe from Z-Packs has commented that the problems I found with this quilt have been rectified. The foot-box is wider and now has a baffled seam. This is excellent news and takes this quilt to the top of the pile for me.
But be warned...
Unfortunately this quilt suffered a blown seam on my cycle tour of Tasmania. Read this review in conjunction with this and make your own judgement.
*UPDATE FEB 2013*
Joe from Z-Packs has commented that the problems I found with this quilt have been rectified. The foot-box is wider and now has a baffled seam. This is excellent news and takes this quilt to the top of the pile for me.
But be warned...
Unfortunately this quilt suffered a blown seam on my cycle tour of Tasmania. Read this review in conjunction with this and make your own judgement.
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Tasmania Bike & Hike
In less than two weeks I will be over in Tasmania for my next adventure. This will be a cycling tour of the main and surrounding Islands with a number of short hikes thrown in.
My last overseas cycling tour was to the south island of New Zealand back in 2006 so I’m particularly looking forward to getting out on the bike again. As I have said in about me this blog will not just be about hiking, though that is my main passion, but will involve travel on 2 wheels as well as by water. The cycling route has been all but decided but I’m not so clear on how much hiking I will actually do. I have many routes marked on the map but certainly won’t be able to do them all. The problem with a bike & hike trip is just what do you do with your bike, and other equipment, while you are away hiking? For some of the more accessible hikes I can just leave everything at the campsite without too much bother. A lot of the other hikes start and finish in the outback and would require me to hide the bike or leave it locked to a tree/fence etc. I’m never totally happy doing this and if you then spend the next 8 hrs worrying about your trusty steed then the hiking obviously suffers. I will just have to see how it goes!
One thing I have is plenty of time, which was a deliberate choice. On previous cycling tours I was obviously limited by how much time I could be away from work. With limited time it’s natural to try and cram in as much as possible, but that means you have little time for exploring or the unexpected. Not so this time, I expect to be actually cycling only during the morning leaving the afternoons free. Even then that still leaves me with around 10 free days. I did consider also taking the packraft but soon dropped that idea after adding up all the equipment weight. With a 23kg baggage allowance that is soon used up with a bike, camping & hiking equipment before adding a packraft, paddle and buoyancy aid. While over in Tassie I will of course not only have Christmas and New Year to celebrate but also a 40 birthday!
Breakdown of the route.
Cycling 2100km (on and off-road)
Hiking 727km (not all routes will be hiked)
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Never Ending Power
One of the great things about cycle touring is that it's much easier to go for long periods without any planned stops than it is with hiking. Sure, you can carry 2 weeks of food in your pack but the one thing you will likely run out of long before food is power! Most of us are heavily reliant on gadgets nowadays, be that with smartphones, cameras, tablets or whatever. Even if you are willing to carry heavy additional battery packs, or unreliable solar chargers, you will eventually have to hook-up to a power-point. This isn't so with a bike, get the right kit and you will never have to worry about power again. The only problem is it can get very expensive.
The two most important components in the charging system are the generator and the rectifier/regulator. These two parts are what give us useable power. After that you have two options -
- Charge a battery pack up during the ride and then recharge your gadgets from the battery pack in the tent overnight (cheapest).
- Charge a buffer battery pack up during the ride while also charging/using the gadget (more expensive).
Generator
This critical component takes the rotational movement of the wheel and converts it into electricity. A simple design all it contains is a coil of wire and powerful magnets. As the magnet is rotated around the coil electricity is generated. How much electricity is generated (Voltage), and with what force (Current), depends on the rotational speed of the wheel. Climb slowly up a steep hill and the output will be a lot less than zooming down the other side. These are AC (Alternating Current) devices and not suitable to charge any gadgets directly. These all require DC (Direct Current), normally at 5V. You don't get anything for free and it takes a certain amout of force (drag) to rotate these magnets around the coil, and that has to come from your legs. So now when you are climbing a hill not only are you fighting the gradient but also the generator. Fortunately this additional drag is so slight on modern hubs that, as a tourer, it can be ignored.
There are two types of generators available. These are hub (above) and bottle. Bottle generators attach to the bike frame and use the tyre sidewall to rotate the magnets. A useful feature of a bottle generator is that they can be disengaged completely when not needed. There is no additional drag when it is not being used and they are normally much cheaper. However, they are noisy, can slip in the wet, need adjusting, wear out your tyres and are less efficient. Hub generators on the other hand are built into the front wheel and are completely silent, have less drag in use, are very reliable, maintenance free and more powerful but always add some drag, even when not being used. For the tourer the hub generator is the only way to go.
When choosing a generator, if cost is not an issue, then you want the lightest and lowest drag hub with the most powerful output and that means the German Schmidt SON range. The one I have fitted is the SON 28 and costs £189.99 and is guaranteed maintenance free for 50000km. The table below shows a number of different generators and how much drag they produce. From then table it can be seen that when riding at 20km/h the rider is using about 5W of their pedal power to charge the gadgets. When not charging it's less than 1W.
Rectifier/Regulator
The job of this component is to take the raw power from the generator and convert it into something stable we can actually use. The AC generator voltage is converted (rectified) to DC and then smoothed and regulated to the chosen voltage and current setting. I have experience with two units which are the B&M E-Werk £139.99 and BioLogic ReeCharge £78.99. The ReeCharge kit is a bit of a bargain because it also includes a Buffer (read on) which the much more expensive E-Werk does not. However, all is not equal! The Biologic has a fixed output of 5V, 400mA while the B&M has a variable voltage and current output at up to a impressive 1.5A. What these means in the real world is that potentially the B&M can charge a gadget up to 3 times as fast as the BioLogic. It's not quite as simple as that as most of the devices you want to charge do not want more than 1A. Then, the B&M should be around twice as fast to charge a device as the BioLogic. The second problem with the BioLogic is a warning in the instruction manual that the device can be damaged if it is operated without the Buffer attached AND turned on. I could see this easily happening on a tour. The buffer lives in my valuables bag so when I leave the bike anywhere I take this bag with me. That means disconnecting the buffer from the regulator and it's possible I could forget to reconnect on return. The risk is too great. I use the fuss-free and more powerful E-Werks set to 5V 1A.
Buffer
If all you want to do is charge a battery pack so that you can charge your gadgets overnight in the tent then you do not need a buffer. Get yourself a USB rechargeable battery pack such as a powermonkey and off you go, nothing else is needed. But, if you want to directly charge, or operate, gadgets from the bikes rectifier/regulator then you will almost certainly need one. Some gadgets are particularly fussy about being charged, with Apple among the worst but they are far from alone. Also, as you cycle along you will have to slow down and stop at junctions so power will be interrupted to the gadget which can cause all sorts of problems. Warning messages flashing on screens, rebooting and refusing to charge at all is likely. The solution is a buffer battery. What you are now doing is charging the buffer battery from the hub which, in turn, is charging the device. When you stop the buffer battery is no longer being charged but the device is. This buffer battery is also an additional source of power and can be used like the Powermoney when in the tent and not connected to the regulator.
Unfortunately most USB rechargeable battery packs, like the previously mentioned Powermoney, are not capable of being charged while charging a device at the same time. They cannot be used as a buffer and the solution isn't cheap! B&M sell a matching buffer which they call a cache battery for £71.48, but if you use Apple devices then it is not capable of charging the latest iPhones. If you're not an Apple user then this might be the best option but I've never tried one and they also can't be charged from a power-point. For Apple users the buffer battery that comes with the BioLogic ReeCharge kit works perfectly with the E-Werk set to 5V 1A. The ReeCharge kit comes with a special adapter that you must use with Apple devices and it works well. It also comes with a mains charging kit which is overly large and heavy so I've replaced it with a smaller unit. This allows the buffer to be charged from a power-point should you have access to one, a useful feature.
That's it! For a total of £408.97 you can have endless, reliable power, or a little less if you omit the buffer. Is it worth it? Only you can decide.
That's it! For a total of £408.97 you can have endless, reliable power, or a little less if you omit the buffer. Is it worth it? Only you can decide.
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See you next year!
It's time to get out on the road again and tomorrow I leave for Tasmania, and my next adventure. The blog will be quiet until February while I'm away cycling and hiking. If you wish to follow my Tasmania Bike & Hike on Social Hiking then it can be found here. With traveling time, and a couple of days rest, I should set off cycling from Hobart on the 6th Dec.
It just remains to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
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Back from Tassie!
Yesterday I returned to a damp, and rather cold, UK after successfully completing the Tasmania Bike & Hike trip. Really enjoyed Tassie and will be putting up a summary of that trip sometime soon. I just have many 1000's of photo's to edit first... can't say I particularly enjoy editing that many photo's but the results are always worth the effort you put in.
Gear failures continue to haunt me and there will be another 2 entries in the rapidly expanding "when will it break?" section of this blog. One of the pieces is made by the first manufacture to appear twice on my wall of shame. The other failure was a bit of a surprise.
The next major trip isn't until around May and will be the Pacific Crest Trail. That's still a few months away which gives me some time to work on producing some more of my own brand kit to replace a lot of the commercial stuff that's failing for, generally, quality issues. Expect to see some posts in the MYOG section, waterproofs, trousers, shirts, packs and a new quilt should all appear. I will also, finally, put up my review of the MLD Cricket shelter which is something I keep getting asked for. I'm not going to be sat behind my keyboard, or sewing machine, all the time and should also have some spare time to get out in the UK and put a few hundred km's under the belt before the PCT.
Life's tough in Tramplite's world :-)
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MLD Cricket Review
If there has been one most requested kit review from me then it has to be the Mountain Laurel Designs Cricket. There appears to be a lack of reviews for this shelter for some reason and I wasn't prepared to rush out my review on a piece of kit that hadn't been thoroughly tested. That wasn't because of lack of use. I originally used the Cricket back in 2011 for my Colorado Trail thru-hike, but I chose not to review it then because the weather had always been reasonably good. I think you can't comment on a shelters performance properly until it has survived at least one serious storm... Fortunately, I had a number of storms on my recent Tasmania trip, so finally here it is.
The MLD Cricket was originally called the Solo Trailstar. This wasn't the best name for it as, visually at least, it has much more in common with the DuoMid or SoloMid. The height isn't really variable as in a Trailstar, nor does it have its wind shedding capability from all sides, the door can’t be moved without re-pitching should the wind change direction and it doesn't have the cavernous internal space which allows you to sleep in any direction. What it does bring from the Trailstar is its simplicity, both in design and pitching, and that adjustable height entrance. Also, when pitched properly, a lot of the Trailstar’s exceptional storm-proofing is here, and all in a smaller and lighter package. Ron soon renamed it from Solo Trailstar to Cricket, though I have no idea why!
I have both the Silnylon and Cuben versions and while they are identical the two materials behave differently making them very different shelters. This review is for the Silnylon Cricket because I much prefer it in this material and it is the shelter that I've used most. I shall also comment on Cuben throughout the review though.
The MLD Cricket is a 4 sided shaped tarp consisting of 2 gently sloping end panels, a steeply sloping rear panel and a raised, shaped, front entrance that forms a sheltered porch area. It looks very much like a SoloMid with a Trailstar front-end bolted on. 2 guy-line attachment points are fitted, 1 in the middle of the rear panel and the other to the front porch, or entrance. Like the Trailstar it is a very simple shelter and has no zips, velcro or delicate buckles. The only plastic parts are the adjustable line-locs fitted on each pegging point and various mitten hooks for directly attaching an inner. These can also be used for lifting the head of a bivi from your face. There is also a loop on the top of the peak, which I assume is for doing away with a centre pole and directly hanging from a tree, but I've never used it. In my book the Cricket’s simplicity is a good thing and keeping everything simple is the best way to produce a reliable and light shelter. It comes supplied in a generously sized stuff sack (Silnylon, even for the Cuben version) with a tube of silicone sealant for the seams (not needed with Cuben) and plenty of high quality line-loc compatible cord. Quality of both my samples was excellent and after over 100 nights use across Colorado and Tasmania nothing has come loose and there is no sign of any wear with the Silnylon Cricket. Finished weight in Silnylon, seam sealed and with guys fitted, is 364g in the stuff sack. Cuben comes in at a lighter 235g. Cost is $165 in Silnylon and $310 in Cuben.
The Cricket is also available with a dedicated inner but you need to look under tents to find that. The dedicated inner version is $295 in Silnylon and up to $500 in Cuben depending on if you choose a Cuben base for the inner. I have the inner with Cuben base and it adds only 210g which is very light. You can use the solo inner from a DuoMid or SoloMid with the Cricket but the dedicated version has an additional windproof panel at the front which provides more weather protection and offers some extra privacy. I have used both and much prefer the dedicated inner.
Although the supplied storage sack is quite large I find the Silnylon Cricket to be significantly easier and quicker to pack than Cuben. The stiffness of the Cuben fabric is a disadvantage here and I find its better to fold or roll the Cuben shelter into its storage sack and this takes much longer than simply stuffing. Might not sound like a deal breaker but I found it annoying when done day after day. I also worry about damage to the fabric from repeated folding but to be fair so far that has not been an issue.
The Cricket is a remarkably easy shelter to pitch and needs only 6 pegs. I recommend the thick blue Easton Nano pegs with this shelter (60g). First the 2 rear corners are pegged out and tensioned and then the 2 front corners are loosely pegged, either in-line with the rear corners if you want a high door (above) or extended past the rear corners should you want the door low (below). This only works with the Silnylon Cricket, Cuben has no fabric stretch and that limits pitching options to a high door only, any attempt to get that door low will result in lots of loose flapping fabric in the entrance area and that flapping fabric WILL drive you insane in a storm. This limits the Cuben Cricket to fair weather use below tree-line for me.
Both shelters however will pitch drum tight which is a sign of a good design that has been well built. No poles are supplied and most people will use their hiking poles with 1 inserted under the peak to support the main shelter and the second pole supporting the entrance at whatever height you choose. With the lowest front entrance possible with the Silnylon version a second pole is not actually needed (above). To finish the pitch the front corners are pegged permanently and tensioned and front and rear guys tensioned. I run the rear mid panel pegging point to the same peg as the rear guy-line which saves a peg and reduces stress on that point.
Either shelter should take no more than 2 mins for a perfect pitch. Getting into, and out, of a Silnylon Cricket can be a little difficult when pitched entrance low but it offers so much more weather protection that it’s worth the hassle. Even if the wind blows directly towards the front I've never felt any rain make it as far as the inner. I guess it could if it was strong enough but in normal conditions a changing wind will not be an issue. There is no such entry problem with the Cuben Cricket as it can only have a high entrance, but a change in wind direction is much more of a problem here. Also with a low door that second pole can be used to double-up the main centre pole for more extreme weather or, even better, you can arrange them in a 'V' configuration. This really makes a noticeable difference when it's blowing hard (below).
MLD recommend a pole height of around 125cm but I use my BD Ultra Distance poles which are 130cm and consider them to be a bit short. They work fine but I can't offset the centre pole quite as much as I would be able to with a slightly longer pole and this takes up a bit of the useable internal space. A longer pole would also work better in the ‘V” configuration. I would say 135cm would be ideal. I wouldn't want to use a pole shorter than 130cm with the Cricket.
Living space is very good for such a small shelter but the center pole does intrude somewhat, a slightly longer pole could be offset more but with my 130cm poles I have to curl around it a bit (above). Hooks are provided for using bivi’s and permanently attaching an inner. I've used Cricket’s with bivi bags, bug shelters, as well as the official and solo inners. The bug shelter is designed for a conventional tarp and doesn't work very well because of the sloping end panels of the Cricket. It's just not shaped right and the mesh will lay on your face no matter what you do. Can’t blame MLD for this as it was never designed for this shelter but some of you might want to use it. A standard hooded bivi works just fine though. The solo and dedicated inners are quite small and I find the walls to be a bit “saggy” when fitted. I’ve tightened them up by attaching some shock cord a little lower down around the mesh. I don’t like only having the door on 1 side of the inner and find it irritating having to shuffle to the other side just to cook something. On the cooking side porch space is excellent with either a high or low pitch and you can easily cook safely under here. Just watch for a buildup of fumes with no high vent. I never leave the inner attached and prefer to pack them individually but the option is there should you want.
The Cricket provides very good 3 season protection from the elements but needs to be pitched properly to excel. Wind and rain are easily repelled and the overhang of the front entrance is more than enough to cope with some change in wind direction. Even when blowing towards the shelter, if the front is low enough, I’ve not had rain reach the inner. If it was strong enough to blow rain as far as the inner then you will really need to re-pitch anyway. To get best performance in really windy weather then pitch side into wind. Make full use of the narrow gently sloping sides of the shelter. The rear is much steeper and will catch the wind much more. Using a ‘V’ pole pitch is also recommended, as is the lowest door possible. When pitched like this the mid rear panel will have a gap of up to 15cm from the ground which is why I consider this a 3 season shelter - it’s drafty! I own both the Trailstar and DuoMid shelters and find a properly pitched Cricket performs a little better than a Duo but not as good as a Trailstar in a strong wind. The comparison with the Duo is when pitched side into wind, with wind from any other direction then the Duo fights back and wins. This is exceptional performance from such a small and light shelter and I'm happy to use my Cricket in almost all conditions, which the exception of winter and extremely windy weather.
Summary
MLD continue to produced shelters of outstanding design and quality at a keen price, that’s why I choose them for my travels. And to be clear, I choose and pay full price for all my equipment. I own many shelters but only 2 I regularly use, these are the Trailstar and now my new favorite shelter, the Cricket. The Cricket is my choice for the best all-round shaped tarp available today. For thru-hiking it's ideal and is the shelter I see myself using for most of my major hikes. Ultimately, it’s not as stormproof as a Trailstar but it offers all the protection you will need in all but the most fowl of conditions. Space is ample but not so big that finding somewhere to pitch can be a problem, as can happen with a Trailstar. Compared to its nearest competitor in the MLD range, a SoloMid (which I don’t own), all the items that can fail are removed - zip, door buckle, velcro. As someone who needs reliable kit that lasts this is a good thing. Weight and packed size are also very good for what you are getting. Choosing between Cuben and Silnylon is easy. If you need a low door - and anywhere above tree-line you probably will, then pick Silnylon. Lighter Cuben with its high door only pitch is fine below tree-line.
A shelter has to be good to knock the Trailstar off the top of my list and the Cricket is that good. Buy it and I doubt you will be disappointed. Just remember this is a tarp and not a tent, if you want the cocooned tent experience than a Cricket, or Trailstar, is not for you. For the rest, buy with confidence.
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